NORTH INDIA

In January and February 2004 Brian and Pat Wetton combined a visit to meet their son Ian with a birding holiday in Northern India. We used Asian Adventures to book our accommodation and transport and they provided a bird guide for the Himalayan part of the itinerary. All their arrangements were very efficient and their own accommodations at Tiger Camp in the Kosi Valley, at Trisul Lodge in Majkhali and at Jungle Lore Birding Lodge in Pangot were of a high standard. Mohit Aggarwal is the owner and their e-mail address is wildindiatours@vsnl.com . Our only poor accommodation was the government run Dhikala Resthouse in Corbett.

Our bird guide for the Himalayan trip was Ratansingh who was an excellent spotter and knew many stakeouts for good birds. We enjoyed his company and learnt a lot about Himalayan birds from him. Although his English was broken his skill as a field ornithologist more than made up for that. Our driver in the Himalayas was Anil Tiwali and he was a first class driver and good company with a nice sense of humour.

In Bharatpur we stayed at the popular Sunbird Hotel. Although the rooms are basic by international standards, the food was good and the management provided good service. Their driver Suraj, who we used on three days, was one of the nicest people we met and as well as being a good driver was a very good ornithologist having worked with the Bombay Natural History Society. In Keoladeo National Park, we used a local bird guide Harish Sharma who was a good guide, spoke good English and was pleasant company for three of our five days in the Park. We also used him on a trip to Bund Baretha.

In Sawai Madhopur, near Ranthambore, we stayed at the Hammir Wildlife Resort which was quite good but we found everything at Ranthambore expensive including the food and transport into the Park. It was there that we felt most "ripped off".

One night stands in Delhi and Agra were at modestly priced and acceptable hotels recommended by Asian Adventures. From Agra we did a half day trip to the Chambal River where the two-hour boat trip was good but expensive. Avoid however the breakfast at Chambal Lodge.

Two rail trips between Bharatpur and Sawai Madhopur and from there to Delhi were in A/C sleeper compartments again booked in advance by Asian Adventures. Air travel was provided by Austrian Airlines with quick transfers in Vienna.

Overall an excellent trip with 377 species of birds and 29 species of mammals and reptiles.

Our itinerary for 26 days was:

Keoladeo National Park (KL)

A former Maharajas hunting reserve with extensive shallow lakes (jheels), woodlands and wet grasslands. Some drier areas especially after the 2003 drought. Adjoining Bharatpur.

Agra and Yamuna River (AG)

Town famous for the Taj Mahal and the Moghul Red Fort. Set alongside the Yamuna River with gravel shallows.

Chambal River (CH)

East of Agra, the Chambal is a clean river (yes they do exist) because it is not considered a holy river. Boat trips arranged with Chambal River Lodge via Asian Adventures. River with sandy mid-stream banks and cliffs famous for Gangetic Dolphins, Garial and Indian Skimmers.

Bund Baretha (BB)

Water supply reservoir for Bharatpur etc surrounded by rocky hillsides covered in thorn scrub. Agricultural fields en route attract buntings, larks, etc.

Ranthambore National Park (RM)

Famous tiger reserve and national park near Sawai Madhopur. Rocky and hilly terrain with lakes, dry forest and thorn scrub. Necessary vehicle restrictions into the park make getting jeep safaris difficult.

Sumbawa Lake (SL)

A shallow lake impounded for irrigation water near Sawai Madhopur. Small areas of marsh and mud. Set amidst agricultural fields.

Ganga River (GV)

The wide holy river draining northern India was crossed at several points. The river and its sandbanks can attract waders, gulls and other waterbirds. Unfortunately for birders, the river attracts thousands of pilgrims. Surrounding fields can hold cranes and storks.

Kosi River (KR)

An upland gorge with fast flowing water even in the dry season. Surrounded by Sal Forest. It adjoins the Corbett National Park.

Corbett National Park (CB)

Large and famous tiger reserve and National Park on the lower foothills of the Himalayas from 1200 to 4000 feet. Mainly Sal Forest with grassland clearings (chaurs) and a lake fed by the Ramganga River which flows through a gorge in the park. Accommodation is provided at various lodges and resthouses and there are tower hides and elephant safaris. Access in most parts is restricted to jeeps because of the risk of encountering tigers.

Ranikhet and Majkhali (RN)

Set in the Himalayan foothills at some 6000 ft these areas have forests of pine as well as mixed forest and terraced fields with scrub. Ranikhet has a military base which is generally clean by Indian standards but its refuse site attracts hundreds of raptors especially Steppe Eagles. Majkhali village has wonderful views of the Kumaon Himalayas with Mount Trisul reaching some 26,500 ft.

Pangot (PG)

Set at some 7,500ft above the resort town and lake of Nainital, Pangot has extensive hill forests and steep grass slopes and terraces. The road to Nainital again has great views of the Kumaon Himalayas. The valleys combine "hot" and "cold" environments at different times of day and the timing of visits to these is critical.

Sattal (ST)

An estate owned by the Methodist Church of India with deep lakes, forests and scrubby fields. The lakes are of little interest but the scrub shoreline holds several rare species such as Golden Bush Warbler and migrant chats. The forest track behind the campsite is excellent for some scarce babblers and laughing-thrushes. Fields nearer the village are also good at times.

Kainchi Temple (KT)

This small temple complex is set alongside the river gorge which runs through Bhowali and was good for forktails and other streamside birds.

Mongoli (MG) and Bajun valleys (BJ)

Valleys running south from Nainital. They contain mixed habitats from forests, scrub, fields and waterfalls at various elevations as one travels down out of the mountains.

Birds recorded:

See codes for sites above

Mammals recorded

Tiger, Himalayan Palm Civet, Rhesus Macaque, Grey Langur, Jackal, Grey Mongoose, Black-naped Hare, Five-striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Blue Bull, Sambar, Spotted Deer, Muntjac, Hog Deer, Indian Gazelle, Indian Fruit Bat, Short-nosed Bat, Gangetic Dolphin, Rat sp, Mouse sp, Vole sp.

Reptiles recorded

Marsh Mugger, Garial, Indian Rock Python, Water Snake, Rat Snake, Monitor Lizard, Soft-shelled Turtle, River Turtle